Glossary of the House

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HAS

Absolute: A concentrated extract obtained by alcohol extraction from a concrete. One ton of jasmine is needed to produce 1 kg of absolute (€10,000/kg). Rose absolute (€15,000/kg), iris absolute (€60,000/kg).

Accord: A harmonious combination of notes creating a unique impression. Famous accords: chypre, fougère, amber.

Aldehydes: Synthetic molecules with sparkling and powdery notes. Revolutionary in Chanel N°5 (1921).

Amber: A warm accord of vanilla, labdanum and benzoin. The base of oriental perfumes.

Ambergris: Sperm whale concretion (€50,000/kg), now synthetic (Ambroxan).

Ambrette: Hibiscus seed with musky, vegetal notes. A natural alternative to musk.

Animalic: Warm notes reminiscent of musk, civet, castoreum. Today, synthetic.

Aromatic: Family with herbal notes: lavender, rosemary, sage, thyme.

B

Balsam: Fragrant resin with warm, vanilla notes. Peruvian balsam, Tolu, styrax.

Benzoin: Vanilla and caramel-flavored balsamic resin. The ultimate natural fixative.

Bergamot: Citrus fruit from Calabria, the most used in perfumery (80% of perfumes). Base of colognes.

Woody: Major family: cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, oud.

Bouquet: An assemblage of floral notes creating a complex composition.

C

Cashmere: A modern accord of white musks and amber woody notes. A second olfactory skin.

Cardamom: A spice with fresh, lemony and camphor notes.

Castoreum: (Synthetic) beaver secretion with leathery and smoky notes.

Cedar: Noble wood. Virginia (creamy), Atlas (dry, smoky).

Chypre: Family created by Coty (1917). Bergamot-oakmoss-patchouli accord.

Civet: Animal secretion (synthetic). Pure: fecal. Diluted: sublime and floral.

Cologne: Concentration 3-5%, citrus notes. Created in the 18th century.

Concrete: Semi-solid material obtained by solvent extraction. First step before the absolute.

Coriander: A spice with green, fresh and woody notes.

Coumarin: A molecule with notes of cut hay, almond, and vanilla. Key to the fougère accord.

Leather: A warm note reminiscent of tanned leather. Smoky, woody, animal notes.

D

Diffusion: The ability of a fragrance to spread through the air.

Distillation: Extraction of essential oils by steam.

E

Eau de Cologne: 3-5% essences, lasts 1-2 hours.

Eau de Parfum: 10-20% essences, lasts 4-6 hours.

Eau de Toilette: 5-10% essences, lasts 2-4 hours.

Incense: Aromatic resin (olibanum) with smoky and mystical notes.

Enfleurage: An ancient extraction technique using maceration in fats.

Essence: Aromatic oil extracted by distillation or cold expression.

Tarragon: Herb with aniseed, green and peppery notes.

Eucalyptus: Fresh, camphoraceous and mentholated note.

Evaporation: Diffusion of molecules. Head (15-30 min), middle (2-4 h), bottom (6-24 h).

Extract: 20-40% essences, 8-24 hour wear. Most luxurious format.

F

Tonka bean: A seed with vanilla, almond and caramel notes. A must-have for gourmets.

Fixative: Ingredient that prolongs hold: musks, resins, woods.

Orange blossom: Neroli (distillation) and absolute (extraction). Solar floral notes.

Floral: Major family: rose, jasmine, iris, lily of the valley, tuberose, ylang-ylang.

Fern: Masculine family (1882). Lavender + geranium + coumarin + oakmoss.

Fresh: Light and invigorating character. Citrus, aquatic, aromatic notes.

Fruity: Notes of fresh or exotic fruits. Very popular since the 1990s.

Smoky: A note evoking smoke, burnt wood, incense.

G

Galbanum: Green resin with herbaceous and bitter notes. Signature of green chypre fragrances.

Gardenia: White flower with a heady and creamy fragrance. Recreated by accord.

Geranium: Green and pink note, slightly minty.

Ginger: A spicy root with fresh, lemony and pungent notes.

Gourmand: Family evoking pastries: vanilla, caramel, chocolate. Popularized by Angel (1992).

H

Heliotrope: Flower with powdery, almond and vanilla notes. Scent of marzipan.

Hesperidic: Citrus family: lemon, orange, bergamot, grapefruit, mandarin.

Essential oil: Concentrate obtained by steam distillation.

I

Immortelle: A Mediterranean flower with honeyed, spicy and curry notes.

Iris: Rhizome with powdery and woody notes. 3 years of drying. €60,000/kg of absolute.

Iso E Super: Synthetic molecule with woody and amber notes. Second-skin effect.

J

Jasmine: Heady and fruity white flower. Grasse (peach), sambac (green), grandiflorum (balanced). 1 tonne = 1 kg of absolute.

Juice: Professional term referring to the final liquid perfume.

L

Labdanum: Cistus resin with amber, leathery and animal notes. Key to amber accords.

Lavender: A fresh, camphoraceous aromatic plant. Fine lavender from Provence (800-1400m).

Linalool: A fresh, floral and slightly woody molecule.

M

Maceration: Resting the perfume after blending. Allows the molecules to meld.

Mandarin: A sweet and mild citrus fruit, less acidic than an orange.

Mimosa: Yellow flower with powdery, honeyed and green notes.

Oakmoss: Lichen with woody and earthy notes. Signature of chypre fragrances.

Lily of the valley: Fresh white and green flower. Recreated synthetically.

Musk: Animalic (synthetic) powdery and sensual note. Fixative and amplifier.

Myrrh: Bitter and mystical balsamic resin. Used since antiquity.

N

Neroli: Essential oil of bitter orange blossoms. Fresh floral and citrus notes.

Heart notes: These are revealed after the top notes. They last for several hours. They define the character of the fragrance.

Base notes: Appear last. Ensure longevity (6-24 hours). Heavy materials: woods, musks, resins.

Top notes: The first notes perceived. The most volatile (15-30 min). First olfactory impression.

O

Carnation: Flower with spicy, studded and peppery notes.

Opoponax: Sweet balsamic resin with honeyed notes. Sweet myrrh.

Orange: Citrus fruit from which several essences are extracted: zest, petitgrain (leaves), neroli (flowers).

Oriental: A family with warm, spicy and vanilla notes. Amber, resins, precious woods, spices.

Osmanthus: Asian flower with fruity (apricot), floral and leathery notes.

Oud: Precious wood from Asia. Woody, animal, smoky notes. The most expensive material in the world.

P

Patchouli: An Indonesian leaf with woody, earthy, and camphoraceous notes. A must-have in oriental and chypre fragrances.

Petitgrain: Essential oil from bitter orange leaves. Green, fresh and woody notes.

Pepper: A pungent and warming spice. Black, pink, and white pepper offer different nuances.

Powdery: A soft and velvety character reminiscent of rice powder. Iris, heliotrope, violet, musk.

Olfactory pyramid: Representation in three levels: top notes, middle notes and base notes.

R

Resin: Aromatic plant substance. Balsamic, warm and tenacious notes: benzoin, myrrh, frankincense.

Rose: Queen of flowers. Grasse rose and Bulgarian rose. Floral, fresh, fruity or powdery notes.

Rosemary: A fresh, aromatic herb with camphor and woody notes.

S

Saffron: A precious spice with leathery, metallic and bitter notes. Luxury and sophistication.

Sandalwood: A precious wood with creamy, milky, and sweet notes. Mysore sandalwood (India): the most sought-after.

Sage: A fresh, aromatic, camphoraceous herb. Clary sage: Herbaceous and musky.

Sillage: The olfactory trace left by a perfume in a person's wake.

Styrax: Sweet, vanilla and smoky balsamic resin. Fixative in the base note.

T

Tobacco: A warm, sweet and honeyed note reminiscent of dried leaves.

Tenacity: The ability of a fragrance to last over time on the skin.

Tea: Fresh, green and slightly smoky notes. Green tea (light), black tea (deep).

Tuberose: White flower with a heady, creamy and narcotic fragrance. Harvested at night. Precious and sensual material.

V

Vanilla: A pod with sweet, warm, and indulgent notes. Madagascar (Bourbon) vanilla: the most prized.

Green: A fresh and natural character reminiscent of leaves and cut grass. Galbanum, violet leaf.

Vetiver: Tropical root with woody, earthy, smoky and citrus notes. The quintessential masculine ingredient.

Violet: Flower with powdery, green and sweet notes. Leaves (violet leaf) and flower recreated synthetically.

Y

Ylang-ylang: A tropical flower with a heady, floral and fruity fragrance. Exotic and sensual notes. Native to the Comoros and Madagascar.